Kalu Pork Curry — Sri Lankan Black Pork with Roasted Curry Spices

⏱ 150 min · Serves 6

Deeply dark, glossy and smoky, this is the curry that makes Sri Lankan cooking famous. Pork shoulder is slow-braised in home-roasted spices until the sauce turns almost black, with tamarind sourness, coconut richness and a slow chilli burn. Serve with rice and a coconut sambol and watch the table go quiet.

Per serving: 612 kcal · 45.0g protein · 14.0g carbs · 42.0g fat

Ingredients

• 1.2kg pork shoulder, cut into 4cm cubes (some fat left on)
• 3 tbsp coriander seeds
• 1 tbsp cumin seeds
• 2 tsp fennel seeds
• 1 tsp black peppercorns
• 4 dried red chillies
• 1 tbsp uncooked white rice
• 1 cinnamon stick, broken
• 6 cardamom pods, cracked
• 1 tsp fenugreek seeds
• 1 tbsp Sri Lankan roasted chilli powder (or 2 tsp cayenne)
• 1 tsp ground turmeric
• 2 tbsp coconut oil
• 2 large onions, finely sliced
• 6 garlic cloves, crushed
• 4cm ginger, grated
• 2 sprigs curry leaves (about 25 leaves)
• 1 stalk lemongrass, bruised
• 1 pandan (rampe) leaf, 10cm piece (optional)
• 2 tbsp tamarind paste
• 1 tbsp dark soy sauce
• 2 tsp goraka paste (optional, or extra 1 tsp tamarind)
• 400ml water
• 200ml coconut milk
• 1.5 tsp fine salt, plus more to taste
• 1 tsp jaggery or dark brown sugar
• Juice of 1/2 lime

Method

1. Dry-roast the coriander, cumin, fennel, peppercorns, dried chillies, rice, cinnamon, cardamom and fenugreek in a heavy pan over medium-low heat, stirring constantly for 8–10 minutes until very dark brown and smoky — push it further than feels comfortable, but do not let it burn bitter. Cool, then grind to a fine powder.
2. Mix the pork with 3 tbsp of the roasted spice powder, the chilli powder, turmeric, tamarind, goraka, soy sauce and 1 tsp salt. Rub in well and leave for 30 minutes (or overnight in the fridge).
3. Heat the coconut oil in a large heavy casserole. Fry the onions with the curry leaves, lemongrass and pandan over medium heat for 10 minutes until deeply golden.
4. Add the garlic and ginger and fry 2 minutes more, until fragrant.
5. Turn the heat up and add the marinated pork. Sear and stir for 8–10 minutes so the spice paste catches on the base of the pan — this darkening is where the colour comes from.
6. Pour in the water, scrape the base clean, bring to a simmer, cover and cook gently for 75–90 minutes, stirring every 20 minutes, until the pork is fork-tender.
7. Uncover, add the coconut milk, jaggery and remaining salt. Simmer uncovered 15–20 minutes until the sauce is thick, dark and clinging to the meat with oil glossing the surface.
8. Stir in the remaining roasted spice powder (about 1 tsp) and the lime juice. Rest 10 minutes off the heat, fish out the lemongrass and pandan, and serve with rice, coconut sambol and a cooling cucumber salad.