Golden Brandade Croquettes with Smoked Garlic Aioli

⏱ 90 min · Serves 6

Crisp-shelled, molten-centred croquettes of salt cod whipped with potato, olive oil and plenty of garlic — the classic Provençal brandade turned into the most moreish bar snack going. Served with a glossy, smoky aioli for dunking, they're the sort of thing that disappears before the drinks are poured.

Per serving: 540 kcal · 29.0g protein · 38.0g carbs · 31.0g fat

Ingredients

• 400g salt cod (bacalhau), thick loin pieces
• 500g floury potatoes (Maris Piper), peeled and quartered
• 300ml whole milk
• 2 bay leaves
• 4 garlic cloves, peeled (2 for the cod, 2 crushed for the mash)
• 100ml extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tbsp double cream
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
• Freshly ground black pepper and grated nutmeg
• 100g plain flour
• 3 eggs, beaten
• 150g panko breadcrumbs
• 1.5 litres sunflower oil, for deep frying
• For the smoked garlic aioli:
• 2 egg yolks
• 1 tsp Dijon mustard
• 1 tsp white wine vinegar
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed to a paste with a pinch of salt
• 1/2 tsp smoked paprika
• 150ml sunflower oil
• 50ml extra virgin olive oil
• Squeeze of lemon juice

Method

1. Soak the salt cod in cold water in the fridge for 24–36 hours, changing the water 4 times. Drain and pat dry.
2. Put the cod in a pan with the milk, bay leaves and 2 whole garlic cloves. Bring barely to a simmer and poach gently for 8–10 minutes until it flakes. Lift out, reserve the milk, then flake the fish, discarding skin and bones.
3. Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender, about 18 minutes. Drain well and steam-dry for 2 minutes, then mash or rice until smooth.
4. Warm the olive oil with the 2 crushed garlic cloves for a minute. Beat the garlicky oil, cream and 3–4 tbsp of the reserved poaching milk into the mash to make a firm, glossy purée — don't make it loose.
5. Fold in the flaked cod, lemon zest, parsley, black pepper and a grating of nutmeg. Taste and season (it may need no salt). Spread into a tray, cover and chill for at least 1 hour until firm.
6. Meanwhile make the aioli: whisk the yolks, mustard, vinegar, garlic paste and smoked paprika. Drizzle in the oils drop by drop at first, then in a thin stream, whisking to a thick emulsion. Loosen with lemon juice and a splash of warm water; season and chill.
7. Roll the chilled mixture into 18 barrels or balls. Coat each in flour, then egg, then panko — double-dip in egg and panko for an extra-sturdy shell. Chill 20 minutes.
8. Heat the frying oil to 180°C. Fry the croquettes in batches of 5–6 for 2–3 minutes until deep golden, turning once. Drain on kitchen paper and sprinkle with a little sea salt.
9. Pile onto a warm platter with the smoked garlic aioli, lemon wedges and a few parsley leaves. Eat while the centres are still molten.