Blowtorched Mackerel with Gooseberry Compote and Horseradish Snow

⏱ 45 min · Serves 4

Blistered, smoky mackerel skin gives way to silky, barely-cooked flesh, cut through by sharp gooseberry and a drift of frozen horseradish snow that melts on the tongue. A restaurant plate you can absolutely pull off at home — just don't forget the kitchen window.

Per serving: 362 kcal · 22.5g protein · 18.0g carbs · 22.5g fat

Ingredients

• 4 very fresh mackerel fillets, pin-boned, skin on
• 2 tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
• 1 tbsp caster sugar
• 200g gooseberries, topped and tailed
• 40g caster sugar (for the compote)
• 1 tbsp cider vinegar
• 1 tsp elderflower cordial (optional)
• 150ml whole milk
• 50ml double cream
• 3 tbsp freshly grated horseradish (or 2 tbsp hot horseradish sauce)
• 1/2 tsp white wine vinegar
• Pinch of fine salt
• 1 tbsp rapeseed oil
• 1 small cucumber, deseeded and finely diced
• A few sprigs of dill or bronze fennel
• Toasted rye or sourdough, to serve (optional)

Method

1. Make the horseradish snow first: warm the milk and cream gently (do not boil), stir in the grated horseradish, cover and infuse for 15 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing firmly, then season with the white wine vinegar and a pinch of salt.
2. Pour the horseradish cream into a wide, shallow freezer-proof tray to a depth of about 1cm and freeze for at least 2 hours (or make a day ahead). Scrape into fluffy 'snow' with a fork just before serving and return to the freezer.
3. For the compote, put the gooseberries, 40g sugar and cider vinegar in a small pan with 2 tbsp water. Simmer gently for 8–10 minutes until the berries collapse. Stir in the elderflower cordial, then cool. Leave a few berries whole for texture.
4. Mix the flaky salt and 1 tbsp caster sugar. Lay the mackerel fillets skin-side down on a tray and scatter the cure lightly over the flesh. Leave 15 minutes, then rinse briefly and pat completely dry — dry skin is essential for a good blister.
5. Lay the fillets skin-side up on a heatproof tray (a metal tray or board lined with foil). Brush the skin with rapeseed oil.
6. Working with the blowtorch 5–8cm away, sweep the flame steadily over the skin until it blisters, bubbles and darkens in patches, about 30–60 seconds per fillet. The flesh should stay pearly and just-warm underneath. Rest 2 minutes.
7. Toss the diced cucumber with a pinch of salt and a drop of vinegar.
8. To plate: spoon gooseberry compote onto four cool plates, lay a mackerel fillet alongside, scatter cucumber and dill, then crown with a generous mound of horseradish snow. Serve immediately, with toasted rye if you like.